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George's Current Ramblings and Readlings

Yield Boosters

June 11th, 2013

   I try to milk every last little bit of production space out of my vegetable garden.

Lettuce inserted among cauliflower transplants.

Lettuce inserted among cauliflower transplants.

   From the design itself to what and how I plant, my goal is to get the most out of the least space with the least work.

   You’ve heard of Square Foot Gardening? I do Square Inch Gardening because a speck of soil is a terrible thing to waste.

   I’ve picked up a lot of little yield-boosting ideas over the years, so this week I thought I’d share some of them with you:

   1.) Planting in blocks instead of rows right off the bat increases yields. But I maximize even the block-plantings by inserting small, fast-growers in the gaps among the transplants.

   Example: When I plant my broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower plants about 15 to 18 inches apart, I insert a lettuce seedling or plant a few radishes in each gap. By the time the cole crops expand over the space, the lettuce and radishes are ready to pick.

   2.) Similarly, I interplant tomato transplants with cucumber seeds. I use concrete-reinforcing wire tied to metal stakes as my “tomato walls,” and this support is also ideal for climbing cuke tendrils.

Cucumber seedlings are coming up and will grow alongside the tomato.

Cucumber seedlings are coming up and will grow alongside the tomato.

   The cukes wind their way up along with the growing tomato foliage, and I end up picking bonus cucumbers in space that otherwise would be used solely by tomato leaves.

    Even a few plants give plenty of cucumbers for fresh eating, usually starting before the tomatoes ripen.

     3.) Those tomato walls are spaced 1 foot in from the edge of my beds to allow soil space for the tomato roots to stretch out.

   I’ve found that shallow-rooted lettuce, mesclun and similar leafy plants do fine in that foot-wide strip without setting back the deeper-rooted tomatoes.

   In summer, I plant the leafy crops so they’ll get afternoon shade from the tomato foliage. That keeps them cooler, giving me bolt-free, bitter-free summer lettuce that wouldn’t be possible out in the open garden.

Read More »


Plugging the Gaps

June 4th, 2013

   One of the last garden jobs I do each spring is “plug the gaps.”

Botanical orphans looking for some soil.

Botanical orphans looking for some soil.

   I’d like to say it’s a carefully planned endeavor where I insert selected plants to finish off that year’s design. 

  But what it really boils down to is me going around trying to figure out where I cram those last few onesies and twosies into any remaining open space that I can find. 

  Yeah, yeah. Do what I say, not what I do.

   I’ve got some good excuses, though.

   The main one is that my landscape is a sort of sacrificial land dedicated to seeing which new varieties are going to croak around here before you waste your money.

   I’m always on the lookout for something new, something different and something that’s not quite officially winter-hardy here that might be.

   I also get a fair number of trial plants from growers – often things that are going to hit the market next year.

   Growers are obviously hoping I’m going to love the new introduction and write about them, but they’re also interested in getting trial feedback to see how the plants perform in different parts of the country.

   For me, it’s a way to stay on top of what’s new while being able to separate the hype from the true winners in our particular soil and climate conditions. I’d much rather base my writings on first-hand experience or at least first-hand observation in a test garden as opposed to relying on what others tell me.

   And the trialing lets me get pictures so I can show you what the plants are going to look like in real life in our area.

   The down side is that I get one or two or three of this and that. I also usually have no idea what’s coming.

   As Tony Avent of Plant Delights Nursery says, it’s hard to “landscape in drifts of one.”

Read More »


Out of the Refrigerator, Into the Oven

May 28th, 2013

   We’re up, then we’re down. Then we’re back up again.

'Black Lace' elderberry reacts to the sudden heat and light...

‘Black Lace’ elderberry reacts to the sudden heat and light…

   This erratic but typical central-Pa. weather has us turning up the heat one day, then turning on the air-conditioning two days later.

   Plants don’t react to this any better than we do (especially since they can’t run to the thermostat for help).

   For one thing, this week’s 90-degree forecast should put an end to the prolonged spring blooms and perfect cool-season veggie weather we’ve enjoyed so far this spring.

   My ‘Black Lace’ elderberry was the first to let me know my backyard plant family wasn’t happy with last week’s heat blast that preceded the Memorial Day weekend cool spell and windiness.

   As the weather approached 90 degrees for the first time and flipped on the sun lamp, the afternoon-sun side of ‘Black Lace’ began to show wilty, flagging branch tips.

   It sloughed off the adversity, but we both agreed that 70-degree days are better.

   At least the cool weekend was good for making the transition from spring to summer.

   I’ve been cutting back the bulb foliage to make way for this year’s annual flowers and new trial perennials.

   The variety I’m most anxious to check out is brunnera ‘Sea Heart,’ a shade perennial with big, heart-shaped, silvery leaves and baby-blue, forget-me-not-like spring flowers. This one is supposed to be an improvement over one-time Perennial Plant of the Year ‘Jack Frost,’ which a lot of people have found melts out in high summer heat and humidity.

   That’s exactly what happened to my ‘Jack Frost.’ It did fine for a couple of years and then just browned out two summers ago and never came back.

Read More »


A Nip of Frost

May 21st, 2013

   Those couple of cold mid-May nights last week nipped the tips of some of my tender young peppers, tomatoes and basil.

This baby pepper got nipped by frost.

This baby pepper got nipped by frost.

   That was only the second time that’s happened to me in nearly 30 years of gardening in the suburbs of Hampden Twp.

   It’s rare around here to get frost damage beyond Mother’s Day. Most years, it’s safe sailing by the end of April.

   What I usually do is hold off on planting the tender stuff (i.e. annual flowers and warm-weather veggies) until early May, then look at the 7-day forecasted lows.

   When the overnight lows aren’t supposed to dip below 40, I plant – figuring that by the time we then get to mid-May, we’ll be at the all-time record late frost date for Harrisburg.

   According to the area’s “official” weather records from Harrisburg International Airport, our all-time latest killing frost is May 11. The average last killing frost is April 20.

   It’s not unusual for frosts to happen later than that to the north of here and in outlying areas, which is why Halifaxers and Newporters often wait until close to Memorial Day to plant their tomatoes and petunias.

   What happened last week was a freak return to the freezing point after a string of normal above-freezing weather.

Read More »


What Blooms When in Central Pennsylvania

May 14th, 2013

   One way to have a succession of landscape color throughout the growing season is to pick bulbs, perennials and flowering shrubs that bloom at different points in the season.

It takes some blooming knowledge and planning to have the garden look good all season.

It takes some blooming knowledge and planning to have the garden look good all season.

   As the flowers of one fades, another picks up the slack and keeps the symphony going even beyond fall frost.

    The key to making it work is knowing what peaks when.

    Although each season’s weather can make a couple of weeks’ difference one way or the other, here’s a list of what typically peaks during which months in south-central Pennsylvania to help you with your spring-planting plans:

March

   * Bulbs: Crocuses, early daffodils, Iris reticulata, snowdrops, winter aconite. 

   * Perennials: Lenten rose (Helleborus).

   * Trees/Shrubs: Cornelian cherry dogwood, forsythia, Oregon grape holly, spicebush, star magnolia, sweetbox, witch hazel.

April

   * Bulbs: Crocuses, daffodils, Dutch hyacinths, early tulips, glory-of-the-snow, grape hyacinths, Grecian windflowers (Anemone), fritillaria, Siberian squill, spring snowflakes (Leucojum), striped squill (Puschkinia).

   * Perennials:  Barrenwort, bergenia, bleeding heart, bloodroot, brunnera, columbine, creeping phlox, euphorbia, foamflowers, lamium, Lenten rose, myrtle (Vinca minor), primrose, pulmonaria, rock cress,Virginia bluebells. 

Read More »


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